Kobe Tourist Information Centre

One of the first things I do on arrival at any destination is visit the tourist office to collect maps and brochures about things to do that I might have missed during my Internet research before I left.
The Kobe Information Centre has relocated to outside Portliner Sannomiya Stn close to JR Sannomiya Central East Exit. Follow the signs to Portliner and you will find. The staff at the Sannomiya office (nicknamed ‘Hello Kobe') were very friendly and helpful when I visited recently to gather information for friends visiting soon. Another office is located within Shin-Kobe Stn, where the bullet train arrives. 

The Kobe Convention and Visitors Association publishes 9 detailed maps (shown above) that cover various areas of Kobe and feature places to visit. The maps are written in Japanese, English, Chinese and Korean. However, the information on the back is mostly in Japanese only. If you cannot visit the information centre during business hours, you can obtain these colourful maps at various locations around Sannomiya and Motomachi, such as convenience stores, museums, hotels and some restaurants.

Available over the counter at the tourist office is the Kobe Guide Book that is packed with information on Kobe that you will not find in any guide book on Japan. This well presented booklet gives brief explanations of the sites at various locations around Kobe, souvenir hints, museums, a list of annual festivals and other useful information for visitors to Kobe.  The association also publishes Kobe Welcome Coupon a brochure full of coupons to use at various museums and facilities around the city. These coupons are only available to foreign tourists. You can obtain a copy at the tourist offices or download them from the official website to print out before you go.  These brochures and maps are also available at Kansai International Airport. Business Hours: Kobe Information Center (Sannomiya): 9 a.m. ~ 7 p.m. Shin-Kobe Tourist Information Center: 9 a.m. ~ 6 p.m. Official Web Site: Feel Kobe (http://www.feel-kobe.jp/english/)

Sakura, Sakura

I often wonder when the Japanese obsession with cherry blossoms (sakura) began. From mid-March, most of Japan is tinged with various shades of pink until mid-April, depending on the variety of cherry blossom and the location. Cherry blossom trees in full bloom are a beautiful sight, and it is one that never ceases to put a smile on my face and make me feel good. I have fond memories of my morning commute to Osaka with the trees in full bloom on either side of the train tracks for a few kilometres—a great start to the day. 

By this time of year, everyone has had enough of the cold weather. The midday temperatures are slowly becoming warmer. Everyone wants to escape the stuffy confines of their home or office. What better way to welcome the beginning of spring than sitting under the cherry blossom trees, having a good time with friends. Not that we need an excuse to party, but any excuse is a good excuse, right?

The word hanami—literally, flower viewing—is on everyone’s lips as soon as reports of the first blossom break. Even though the word hana means flower or flowers, I was soon corrected when I used the term to refer to plum blossom viewing. Hanami is only used to refer to sakura viewing parties. 

Shown in the photo below is a typical hanami picnic. The blue sheet is ubiquitous, though sometimes green. Hanami is not hanami without it, though some people do improvise with a newspaper or a plastic bag when hanami-ing on a whim. When I first came to Japan, the karaoke machine was also a necessary accessory for hanami. Many foreigners would have stories about being dragged into a group and eventually made to sing ‘My Way’. But with the proliferation of karaoke boxes, karaoke machines are not seen at hanami as often, today.

One of the best locations in the Hanshin area to relax and enjoy the flowers over a couple of drinks and good conversation is along the banks of Shukugawa in Nishinomiya. It is one of the most famous hanami locations in the country. And, the crowds prove it. Nishinomiya even features sakura on its manhole covers. Nearby Ashiyagawa is also a good location, but the river offers fewer places to sit and relax.

Traditionally, hanami and sake go hand in hand, but nowadays anything goes. If you arrive on Hankyu, shop at the Daiei supermarket across the street to the south of the station to save you lugging food and beverages. Various stalls are set up along the east bank of Shukugawa selling food and drinks (at inflated prices, as you would expect).

It usually rains, this time of year, and for hanami revellers, the rain is the enemy. Not only for the obvious reason—not that rain has ever stopped my friends and me from finding a covered spot at our selected hanami location to continue as planned—but also because the rain makes the blossoms fall sooner. Thus, shortening the hanami season. (It also takes the fun out of walking through the blossom rain.) Shukugawa has few covered areas, but I have seen some creative people sitting in the rain enjoying a less crowded and less noisy hanami.

If you are planning on going hanami-ing at night when the trees are in full bloom, or on a weekend, you may have to send someone ahead as bashotori (claim staker). I have used this opportunity in the past to enjoy the blossoms alone before everyone turns up and the blossoms are soon forgotten as drinks and conversations flow. 

Access:

Hankyu Shukugawa Stn is located above the river. From JR Sakura-shukugawa Stn, turn right after exiting the station to find the river.

Travelling Tools

The first time I travelled overseas from Australia was to Japan. The next time to Greece. Both times, I knew the language to various degrees. The first country I visited where I didn't know the language was Turkey. It was difficult for me to not feel uneasy and uncertain, but after a day or two I was beginning to enjoy the challenge of communication over barriers.

The technology of the 21st century is making it easier and easier for travellers to communicate without having to study Swahili in Three Months before they leave. More and more people are taking their iPhone with the when they travel. Read here for some are some handy apps for travelling in Japan. I have not tried them, myself, though.

Holey Nishinomiya

Walking around Nishinomiya, the other day, I could not help but look down to see what manhole covers they have. (I need to find a new hobby, it seems.) Here is what I found so far.

This manhole cover seems to be the more ubiquitous in Nishinomiya, featuring Koshien Stadium, home of the Hanshin Tigers, the sake breweries of Nada and sakura (cherry blossoms).

This cute design features a frog and sakura.

Nothing really special about these, but it was interesting to see the Star of David with the character for west (西, nishi from Nishinomiya) in the middle.

The hunt for more manhole covers continues.

Wood Block Prints & Antique Books

Until a year ago, there was a two-storey secondhand bookshop in the Center-Gai shopping arcade in Sannomiya that carried a large range of ukiyoe (wood block prints) at various prices and in various conditions. I went there often to buy presents for people’s birthdays and used to enjoy poring through the ukiyoe looking for just the right one. They make ideal gifts, because are light to carry overseas—though you do need to be careful not to crush them. (Go to a 100-yen shop and buy a tube.) Since then I have searched in vain for other shops that carry old ukiyoe in Sannomiya, but to no avail. The area behind Daiei supermarket—to the west of JR Sannomiya Stn—used to have many secondhand bookshops hidden in the warren of streets, but the earthquake put most of them out of business and those that survived eventually closed down.

So, where do you go to buy original ukiyoe replicas? (Good luck in finding an original original.) By original I mean one that has not come off the printing press, but one authentically cut from a block. Before the age of the printing press, making replicas and selling them was big business—the only way to own your own Hokusai to adorn your wall. Some have been handed down a few generations and have found their way to the secondhand shops.

If you are visiting Kobe, then you will probably be passing through Osaka, or even sightseeing there. Inevitably, you will pass through the Umeda area—JR Osaka Stn, Hankyu Umeda Stn, Hanshin Umeda Stn, and Subway Umeda, Higashi-umeda and Nishi-umeda Stns. Here, you will find a few shops that will save your feet.

Under the Hankyu tracks to the north of Umeda—behind Kiddyland—is Kappa Yokocho Furushonomachi (Kappa* Alley Antique Book Market). Not only will you find secondhand bookshops here, but also shops that specialise in musical scores, musical instruments and antique (and not-so-antique) Japanese art. I have found some great pieces here, especially in the shop beside the music shop (shown on the right). The prices of some of the old books and paintings may surprise you, but if you are interested in Japanese art, this is a good place to spend a couple of hours while your travel companions are shopping in the modern meccas of Kiddyland and LOFT.

Access: 
Once you get to Umeda, ask people where Kiddyland is. If you find someone who does not know, then they are from out of town. Once you get to Kiddyland (which is below ground), keep heading above ground under the Hankyu train tracks. Another landmark to watch out for is D•D House. If you find that, then Kappa Yokocho is directly opposite under the train tracks. Likewise, if you find NU•chayamachi, it is just across the street from the main entrance.

Business Hours:
11 a.m. ~ 8 p.m. (The restaurants are open until 11 p.m.)
Closed: 3rd Wednesday in February, April, June, September and November.

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* You will see a green frog-like creature in the entrance. This is the legendary Japanese creature, the kappa.

Holey Designs

When travelling, we try to absorb as much of our surroundings as possible, looking around to the left, to the right and even up. But how often do we look down? There are exceptions. A friend took his mother to Paris. Whenever he looked over, she was looking down because she was hoping avoid stepping in dog doo. Aren’t you lucky that there is little chance of that happening in Japan? If you do look down here, you may be lucky enough to find a 10K note to pay for a night’s accommodation. (One yen is more likely, though five yen [go-en] is more auspicious due to the play on word on destiny/fate, go-en [ご縁; go prefix being honorific.]) All jesting aside, if you do not look down occassionally, you will be missing one of the local specialties of the city, town or village you are visiting—manhole covers.

I was first alerted to the distinctive designs on manhole covers in Japan by a friend's mum visiting from overseas. Rarely looking down when walking around town, I had been oblivious to one feature unique to every municipality. (Also, it is probably obvious that I'm still working for a living.) We were walking through the Kitano area of Kobe. At first, I thought she was joking when she told me to wait while she took a photo of one; it was just a manhole covers, after all. Or, so I thought. On closer inspection, I found the design consisted of famous Kobe landmarks, food, and other local symbols and features.

Manhole cover watching has become a worldwide pastime, fondly known as ‘drainspotting’. Some people not only spot them, but like rubbing them, too.

Looking at the Japan Ground Manhole Association web site, we find that of the 1,524 cities in Japan that have manhole cover designs 47% feature flora and 21% fauna. It is safe to say, though, that in all cases, the designs will boast the city’s famous features. They also vary depending on the utility. Kobe is blessed with many manhole cover designs, some of which are featured below. (More will be posted as I find them—some are illusive, ye ken?)

For more information about the history of manhole covers in Japan, read the article on The Japan Times web site.

Tthe Kitano weathercock, Rokko cable car, Kobe Festival fireworks, Kobe Wine, Kobe Tower, seagulls, parfaits, and other motifs.

Okamoto has its own designs.

Some simple designs featuring the Kobe city symbol.

Meriken Park (top left), Kitano weathercock (centre), the port (top right), street lamps seen at Meriken Park (bottom right) and Customs House (bottom left).

Sannomiya cityscape with the mountains in the background and the sea in the foreground. Note the reflection of the name, Kobe, in the water.

The mountains of Rokko.

Kobe Tower, the port, the Port Island Bridge.

Look down occasionally. It would be such a shame to miss these works of art under your feet.

[If you see manhole cover designs not featured here, please send in photos and I'll put it up with full credit.

Japanese Souvenirs for All Seasons

Looking for the perfect Japanese gift or souvenir can be hard, because the shops that do carry traditional-like Japanese products are hard to find. Hukujungo (福順号), east of JR Sannomiya Stn (in the building to the east of Daiei), not only deals in traditional Japanese merchandise, but its display changes with the seasons. 

From January through early March, they have a large selection of quality hina dolls on display for Girl’s Day (March 3rd). The price tags may bend your credit card so far it would break, but they do stock smaller, lower quality dolls, too. On the heels of Girl’s Day is Children’s Day (formerly known as Boy’s Day), and the display changes to miniature full samurai regalia, helmets and warrior boy dolls in early March. Once again, mind your credit card doesn't snap. 

As summer approaches and everyone is spending more time outdoors picnicking and barbequing, Hukujungo sells a wide variety of fireworks and Japanese uchiwa fans (at reasonable prices) from June through September. The array of fireworks readily available is mindboggling for an Australian like myself, because fireworks are banned there. One reason for Australians to visit Japan in summer.  (Note: Most parks, beaches, rivers and other public places restrict the use of fireworks to 9 or 10 p.m., and some locations restrict the use of rocket fireworks.)

Hit October, and everyone begins wondering where the year went.  The display of hagoita and other items displayed at New Year in Japan fill the shelves from late October. Soon after New Year’s Day, the display reverts to the hina dolls and the cycle begins again.

I found the clerk, who speaks English well, to be very friendly and willing to explain the various aspects of the goods on display--their meaning, use and significance. Of course, window shopping is no problem. Go in a browse and learn a bit about Japanese culture while you are there. Some dolls are displayed at the back of the shop year round. You may be able to pick up an off-season bargain, like I did in Matsuyamachi (Osaka’s doll district) many years back.

Web site (http://www.hukujungo.com/)

Business Hours:

10 a.m. ~ 7 p.m. Closed Thursday (Not closed during the busy seasons January~April, July~August, but closed for most of May and October.)

Address: 5-3 Kumoidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe

Phone: 078-221-1992

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Okamoto for Plum Blossoms

梅は岡本 (Okamoto for plum blossoms)

桜は吉野 (Yoshino for cherry blossoms)

みかんは紀の国 (Kinokuni for mikan)

栗丹波 (Tanba for chestnuts)

[a popular Edo Period song]

By mid-February, everyone is tired of the bleak winter weather and pining for spring and warmer weather. A visit to Okamoto Bairin (岡本梅林) to view the plum blossoms is guaranteed to lift your spirits and give you the energy to see out the winter. They are in bloom from approximately mid-February to early March.

The origin of the plum glove in Okamoto is unknown, but the old names for the Okamoto 6-chome and 7-chome neighbourhoods were Bairin (梅林: plum grove) and Umegaya (梅ヶ谷: plum valley). Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598), who unified Japan, is said to have relaxed at Okamoto Bairin. References were made to flower viewing in Okamoto in various books printed in the Edo period, including the plate shown above from the Illustrated Famous Locations in Settsu (摂津名所図会). The head of the Amagasaki Clan, which held control of the Okamoto area at the time, would visit with a large number of samurai every year when the flowers were in bloom. During the Meiji Era, the trains passing two kilometres south of the grove on what is now the JR line would briefly stop below the grove to allow the passengers to enjoy the view of the plums.

梅は岡本 (Okamoto for plum blossoms)

桜は生田  (Ikuta for cherry blossoms)

松のよいのが湊川 (Minatogawa for good pines)

[a popular ditty sung by the people of Hyogo during the Edo Period]

Alas, all three locations mentioned here have disappeared.

Landslides buried most of the Okamoto plum grove during the Great Hanshin Floods of 1938. What remained was destroyed by air bombing during WWII. The original location is now an apartment complex, which is soon to be rebuilt into a luxury apartment complex. The stables of Ikuta Shrine that were famous for cherry blossoms are now Ikuta Road. And, the levee of Minato River is now Shinkaichi Road.

Okamoto Bairin—at its current location in Okamoto 6-chome—was opened as Okamoto Park (岡本公園) through the efforts of locals in 1982 with a total of 130 trees of 26 varieties of plums, a pagoda and a pond. Plans to expand the park to the east in the near future are under consideration.

For those who have still not had their fill of plum blossoms, a walk up and across Tenjo River (天上川), then follow the path up Mt Hokura (保久良山) to enjoy the yamamomo variety of plum blossoms in the shrine grounds, which are said to be over 100 years old.

As you approach Hokura Shrine (保久良神社) from the west, you will find another plum grove which opened in 1975. Just behind the plum grove are a few picnic benches for you to enjoy your bento or just take a break. Beware, though, of the wild boars. They are attracted to the sound of plastic bags thinking they contain food, which in your case they most probably do. Make no sudden moves. Ignore them, and they’ll ignore you.

Even though the entrance to the shrine offers a stunning view of Higashinada Ward across Osaka Bay to Wakayama and Kansai Airport in the winter months, an even more spectacular view of the Hanshin area awaits the energetic all year round about ten minutes up the trail from the picnic area.

You can return via Tenjo River, or take the eastern (main) approach to the shrine and turn right before or after you cross the Hankyu train line to return to the Settsumotoyama/Okamoto area (approximately 30 mins).

Access: 

20 minutes walk from JR Settsumotoyama Stn, 15 minutes from Hankyu Okamoto Stn. From the main Okamoto shopping area, follow the pink banners to the west, cross Tenjo River and follow it north. If you reach Yahata Shrine (八幡神社), you have gone too far. Go back one block and turn right. Or just follow everyone else.

View Higashinada in a larger map

Smokers Beware!

The national government is to urge local governments to impose a total ban on smoking in restaurants, bars and other public places. Following the example of other cities in Japan, the streets of Sannomiya and Motomachi in Kobe were designated as a No Smoking Zone in April 2008 with a fine of 1,000 yen for offenders.

You will see signs, like the one shown here, displayed around the area and painted onto the pavements. If you are hanging out for a drag, there are 4 designated smoking areas located near the stations: in front of Sogo Department Store on Flower Rd, in front of Marui Department Store on Flower Rd, on the south of JR Motomachi Stn, and on Sannomiya Chuo Rd. Take a look at the city council web site for photos of the smoking areas and the uniforms of the enforcers.

Grinders for Burgers

Sometimes when you crave a hamburger—a real hamburger. So, where do you go without succumbing to MacDonald’s? Mosburger is a good alternative. I met with a friend who was craving meat in Sannomiya the other day, and I knew exactly where to take her: Grinders.

Located one block east of Sogo Department Store, opposite Beams, this little burger joint is one of Kobe’s best kept secrets. The owner, who speaks excellent English, wanted to open a hamburger joint in Japan and travelled the U.S. looking for the right hamburger. He finally approached Grinders burgers to allow him to open a franchise in Kobe.

My friend ordered a large Basil and Avocado Burger and she was afraid that she would not get through it; it was so big. She did, however, because “it tasted so good”. Other burgers include Super Cheese with a cream cheese and oregano sauce, Italiano Verde with a basil and parsley sauce, Hot Salsa, and Japanese-style with lots of mushrooms. The burgers are made with 100% quality Australian beef and fresh vegetables, and made fresh to order. The prices might seem more expensive than you are used to paying, but you will not be disappointed.

Of course, there are sets, freshly made soups, and other items on the menu to tempt you. As well as your standard soft drinks, Grinders also stocks a wide range of imported beers at reasonable prices; Samuel Adams, VB, Negro Modelo, Singha, Fosters and more.

Check out Grinders on YouTube.

Business hours:

11:00-20:00 (11:00-15:00 Tuesdays)

Closed Mondays & the 1st and 3rd Tuesdays of the month.

Address:

B1F Maki Bldg, 7-1-5 Onoedori, Chuo-ku, Kobe 

Phone: 078-267-3350

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Plane, Train and ... Ferry!

One of the many ways to get to Kobe—but relatively unknown—is the Kobe-Kanku Bay Shuttle ferry between Kansai Airport and Kobe Airport. Depending on the amount of luggage you have, the Limousine bus or the train will save you lugging heavy bags up and down staircases. If you are staying in downtown Kobe, the Sannomiya (三宮)-Motomachi (元町) area, the ferry is a cheaper alternative to the bus or the train—depending on the route.

I, personally, found it difficult to navigate—even after checking their web site—when I used it, late last year. Hopefully, this guide will make it easier.

From Kansai Airport:

First, buy your ticket at the vending machine (or at the counter) just inside the Door A at the Arrival Lobby on ground level. (Tickets are not available from the limousine bus machines outside, so don’t waste time, like I did, looking for the right button to press.) The machine-bought ticket is only valid for the ferry, so you will need to receive a ticket for the Portliner monorail (included in the fare) from Kobe Airport to Sannomiya Stn from the staff. The shuttle bus from the Kansai Airport terminal building to the ferry pier leaves from bus stop no. 12.

On arrival at the ferry terminal at Kobe Airport Kaijo Access Terminal, be sure to take the bus that is waiting ­at the pier for the monorail station. Having left from Kobe Airport on my trip, I assumed the shuttle bus to Kobe Airport terminal would pick us up from the stop in front of Kaijo Access Terminal. Wrong! It was at the pier and I had missed it. I missed the announcement (you tend to block them out after a while, no?), but there was also a lack of signs. The next bus? One hour later. Consequently, I had to drag my heavy bags in the rain across the car park to Kobe Airport Stn.

From Sannomiya, Kobe:

When leaving from Sannomiya to catch the ferry to Kansai Airport, be sure to buy your ferry ticket and monorail ticket as a set from the Portliner Information office before you get on the Portliner monorail, otherwise you will pay for both tickets. The office is located at the top of the escalators coming from JR Sannomiya Stn East Exit. The staff are very helpful in suggesting what time to catch the Portliner to make the ferry on time. The tickets can also be bought in advance.

On arrival at Kobe Airport, you will need to take the stairs or the elevator in front of the Kobe Airport Stn ticket gates to ground level. If the weather is fine and you have some time before the ferry leaves, walk across the car park to the ferry terminal building.

(Translations have been commissioned for additional signage for the ferry, so I hope the service is easier for people to use and patronised by more people.)

Official web site:

Kobe-Kanku Bay Shuttle (http://www.kobe-access.co.jp/en/)

Other useful links:

Jorudan (http://www.jorudan.co.jp/english/)

Jorudan not only covers trains, but also planes and buses.

Limousine Bus (http://www.kate.co.jp/pc/index_e.html)

Kansai Airport (http://www.kansai-airport.or.jp/en/)

Kobe Airport (http://www.kairport.co.jp/eng/)

Out with the Old: Motoyama Ichiba

Last Saturday, I was in Okamoto shopping, so I decided to buy some tofu at the family-run tofu shop. Almost twice as expensive as tofu at some supermarkets, but twice as delicious. As I walked along Suidosuji (the shopping street in Okamoto that runs east-west) towards Motoyama Ichiba (本山市場), I heard the sounds of heavy machinery and a tremendous crash. The day had come; demolition had begun. When the market came into view, I saw that the buildings in the south-west were but rubble—the hydraulic shovel filling up the truck. I knew it would happen eventually, but had no idea of exactly when.

Historically, Motoyama Ichiba is relatively new and really nothing to look at. Built in 1957 across from the then Motoyama Town Hall, it consisted of series of 16 buildings—eight on both the east and west—adjoining each other with the narrow passage inbetween running north-south to form an arcade. Yamatekansen, the main road running east-west from Amagasaki to Kobe, did not exist at the time. The area south of Suidosuji (lit. Water Avenue) to then Japan National Railway (now Japan Railways) tracks and beyond was nothing but rice paddies and vegetable patches.

When I lived near the market, I would visit religiously every Saturday to buy tofu, pickles and maybe eggs from tofu shop, tsukemono shop and poultry shop, respectively. Yuki, the maltese dog at the tsukemono shop, is famous for saving her master during the Great Hanshin Earthquake and was lauded in the press at the time for her loyalty. People would once come to the market just to meet her. Other shops included a hardware shop, a greengrocer, a dry cleaner, fresh udon noodle shop, a drug store and a dry goods shop. All were family-run.

The times changed, Hankyu subdivided the land north of the station and the Okamoto area became upmarket. With this change came chic boutiques, cafes, restaurants and, of course, supermarkets. The owner of the front shops at Motoyama Ichiba retired leaving the shops shuttered. The market became rundown, dark, dingy and uninviting. Slowly, other shops closed their shutters, too, with only eight shops open for business.

In more recent years, the hardware shop was converted into a quaint izakaya, which became our regular hangout and favourite restaurant to take visitors, especially from overseas. Then came a jumble shop cum coffee shop and an alteration shop. An effort was made to attract customers with a colourful guide to the shops in the market out the front. Fairy lights illuminated the entrance at Christmas. But the market never recovered its past glory.

Most shops are closed. The tofu shop, greengrocer and poultry shop are closing at the end of the month. The plans for the site are still unclear, but the tenants had heard that the market would be replaced by an apartment building with specialty shops on the ground floor.

Access: Walk north of JR Settsumotoyama Stn across the lights to the Suidosuji T-junction, turn left and it’s on your right. From Hankyu Okamoto Stn, walk south until the Suidosuji T-junction, turn right and it’s on your right.

What do you want to know about Kobe and the Hanshin area?

History, restaurants, sightseeing, shopping and other useful information for living and travelling in Kobe and the Hanshin area (between Osaka and Kobe). Kobe and surrounds offer so much to see and do. This blog aims to disseminate various information for not only the locals, but also the tourists.

Please contact me with suggestions for content, if the information here is dated, or if there is an event that you think would interest followers of this blog.